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Coastal engineering

Coastal engineering

The course treats theoretical fundamentals of ocean wind generated waves. Primary emphasis is put on linear water wave theory and its applications, as well as on finite amplitude waves and long waves. Formation of deep-water waves and their transformation by shoaling, refraction and diffraction is also considered. Mechanics of waves and currents in the coastal zone: wave breaking, suft zone dynamics, cross and long-shore currents. It also offers knowledge of power nature, amplitude and energy spectra, including one-dimensional and directional spectra, and probability characteristics of waves. Interaction with various hydraulic structures is considered.